We’ve had an upsurge of clients coming in with trendy, vibrant hair colors in their hair, and wanting to remove them. The vibrant colors (like those in the image below) are direct dyes. It is not as easy as just applying one step and getting what you want (unfortunately we can do great things with hair -but there are limits.) The problem with semi permanents like these is they are not guaranteed to last for longer than 10 shampoos and may be less with pastel hues or on bleach damaged or compromised hair. Ironically, if you want to remove them they can be a real bother!
Direct dyes do not “require oxidation or developer for the color to stain the hair. In areas where the hair is more porous, this type of color will show greater intensity. Caution must be exercised when utilizing a semi-permanent haircolor on porous hair; it can stain the hair permanently.” (From the American Board of Certified Colorists haircolorist.com)
Sometimes, using strong bleaches will make the direct dye go further into the hair shaft and lodge even more stubbornly inside the hair. There are ways to strategically fade or remove the direct dye but having it professionally done is COLOR CORRECTIVE.
(Color correction work includes working with removing artificial pigment, coloring hair with previous color history, or deepening or lightening more than 3 levels. )
There is NO GUARANTEE in removing direct dyes. It may take multiple sessions to achieve- it may even not be possible to completely remove without cutting it out. If its a blue, green, or teal-like hue, it can be VERY difficult to remove.
If you want to help the fade along you can do the following:
Use dish or liquid laundry detergent with harsh sulfates to aggressively emulsify out the color
Add 500 mg of crushed Vitamin C and/or Baking Soda to your professional level sulfate free shampoo (leave on for 45 minutes and rinse+condition)
Soak your hair in bath salts for 40 minutes then shampoo and condition
If you are asking a stylist to remove it, we recommend asking for a mild bleach+ clarifying shampoo with Olaplex treatment at the shampoo bowl or use a color line that can lift direct dye without bleach lightener. That way you are removing the color mildly. This can remove some of the color and then the remainder can be bleached out once 90% faded.
****If the above methods do not work****
-Take a break, and deep condition your hair twice a week before attempting to remove it again.
And remember…we may be able to do magic with haircolor, but we have no magic wand for every hair situation!
Hairstylists do their absolute best to counsel you on the risks of certain services as well as trying to make you happy…
Have more questions?
Book a color consultation with one of our independent hair designers at www.emersonsalon.com today!